jotta.unlike.fashionweek
The fashion merry go-round is in full rotation at London Fashion Week’s new digs at Somerset House, where the “25 Years of British Fashion” celebrations continue. Here’s a half-time report from the jotta.unlike team about the goings-on on the catwalks and behind the curtains (check out the jotta fashionweek special for full coverage).
THE NEW VENUES: Somerset House has been transformed into a kaleidoscope of fashion venues, housing the British Fashion Council catwalk show space, The Portico Rooms presentation area and an array of designer showrooms and lounges. Continuing its support of new designers, LFW features an array of smaller, off-schedule talent showcases dotted around the main venue, creating a ‘central fashion village’. Shows include collaborative catwalk show “On|Off” at 180 Strand just around the corner, Vauxhall Fashion Scout at Freemasons’ Hall and Fashion Fringe in Covent Garden – all thankfully within easy distance for stiletto-strapped feet. Fashion East at the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2000. Founder Lulu Kennedy’s impeccable ability to choose new talent has given the initiative a reputation for its fashion instinct helping young designers such as Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll and Emma Cook launch their labels.
Sartorial celebrations began early as Tank Magazine hosted the launch of Hywel Davies’ latest book British Fashion Designers aptly enough at London’s Liberty. Style luminaries including milliner Stephen Jones and fashion historian Judith Watt were treated to cocktails, with Davies on hand to sign copies of his third offering.
Greek born designer ioannisdimitrousis started the celebrations off with a salty bang unveiling his latest collection.
On sunny Saturday morning, the great and the good gathered outside Westminster University for the Mark Fast and Mary Kantranzou shows as part of Topshop NEWGEN. An air of excitement surrounded Fast following his storming success at the “On/Off” show last season.The hall was packed as the lights went down and the first model appeared wrapped in a skin tight crocheted mini dress. Mary Kantranzou followed immediately with Pucci-like swirls on acid printed silks and higher-than-high shiny fabrics, sculpted bows and holograms strutted down the runway to “She’s a Lady” by Pulp, New Generation-sponsored Louise Gray ventured forth to create an idiosyncratic presentation in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms. The wild exuberance of her work shattered the classic interior, with an late ‘80s/early ‘90s London-inspired collection named “Oh No Babe.”
Last season the buzz was all about Kinder Aggugini formerly the industry’s best-kept secret. With his new collection “Loss of Innocence” the Italian-born wunderkind steps into the spotlight. Another Central Saint Martins graduate and former “ghost” designer for the likes of John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Versace, the crux of Aggugini’s new collection lies on pretty children’s dresses, ripped apart at the seams and rendered darker and spruced up to become more “adult.”
This season’s selection of designers at Blow Presents clearly demonstrated the diversity of new talent in London. From “haute coiffure” by Charlie Le Mindu to sophisticated unisex looks by Lina Osterman, their eccentricity was highlighted by their incompatibility.
Antonio Berardi is the British-Sicilian designer whose return to London after years spent showing in Paris has warmed the hearts of many a patriot this season. Not attracted to the buzz of the BFC tent, he took his show to the Grade I listed St. Marks church in Mayfair and had models strut down the aisle with enough flesh on display to make a vicar blush.
London’s design husband and wife team Eley Kishimoto have maintained their success since 1996, continuing to supply us with great relaxed shapes full of playful exuberance. Beyond the Chintz is a “clashing of visual references in the home environment” mixing silk and cotton, geometric and check, leather and jersey and their slouch with a touch of floral was another winner.
previous next
