Craig James knows a thing or two about running a restaurant, having managed a team of 36 as Head Chef at sceney Quaglino’s. Now with his eponymous South London establishment, he is able to churn out top-notch dishes in a decidedly more snug and simple environment.

Puddings come highly recommended: a raspberry and white chocolate mille-feuille is criminally indulgent. The wild garlic soup and grilled mackerel are other highlights of a small, daily-changing menu sourced from British suppliers and as capricious as the seasons. Your choice of seat may be too: the outdoor front area makes for excellent people-gawking in warm weather.

Prices are quite high but some fantastic offers are available to those booking in advance.