The uninspiring facade is the first of several good things about Akari. After all, had it been an eye-catching triumph, chances are many more would have discovered it and forever altered the unique, ‘stumble on by accident’ ambience that gives this venue its charm.

Located on Islington’s bustling Essex Road, it is easy to mistake Akari for a typical lager and live sport pub. Glance a second time though, and the window’s Japanese typography is enough to get the mildly curious through the doors to discover an altogether different ‘gastropub’. Akari (Japanese for ‘lightness’) has undergone a considerable facelift, but not at the cost of the pub’s original fixtures. Antique Chippendale wall mounts, high Victorian ceilings and a spacious bar all remain, except the buxom bar maids of yesteryear have been replaced by talented Japanese chefs who slice, slurp and season dishes at lightening speed. Unaffected but gleefully atmospheric, Akari doesn’t imitate typical Japanese dining – it is Japanese dining.

Speaking of which, the cuisine is of the traditional Izakaya school of thought and is intended to complement the sake on offer. Savour tenderly fried calamari hoods in ginger, or ignite taste buds with the best-selling Sui Gyoza: four opalescent pillows of homemade pork and herb dumplings, shimmering like sunken treasure in a giant bowl of miso. For the heavy weights meanwhile, robust, silky tuna cheek is an instant conversation (gob) stopper, while a grilled cod with miso has caused arguments according to the owner, purely down to “who gets the last piece of crispy marinated skin”. After our second visit, we’d agree that’s something worth fighting for.