Okay, so you might not want to bathe by the banks of central London’s main vein, the Thames, as denizens once did. But despite whatever sewage surges through the Southern English river, it still provides a stunning backdrop for sunset waterfront picnics, boat rides and meditative contemplation while walking over the Millennium footbridge.

See a section of the city tied to development pre-dating Shakespeare by about 58 million years. The Thames as we know it now has been privy to both natural and man-induced anomalies in more recent history. In the 17th century, frigid winters led the river to freeze, and in 1607 the Frost Fair was held with activities like ice bowling. By the time thaw occurred, the river had been put back to great use, polluted by industries of all variety. Dickens alludes to the composition of the Thames, opening with a vivid description of it and the people working it in Our Mutual Friend (1864–65), as well as describing a body being pulled from out of the currents and looted. In 1858, pollution was so bad and the river stench so strong that sittings at the House of Commons were abandoned. There have been boat races and even infamous boat crashes.

But for the most part, the Thames seems uneventful; after all it provided the emblem of calm to Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness. Take a moment by the Thames and appreciate London’s main water source (thank heavens for filtration systems!). And keep looking, if you’re lucky perhaps you’ll catch sight of the elusive Black Swan. Otherwise you can always see plenty by people watching along the walkway.